Gasherbrum I Climbing Routes
The Gasherbrum mountains are a group of peaks composed of five main summits: Gasherbrum I (K5), Gasherbrum II (K4), Gasherbrum III (K3), Gasherbrum IV (K2 West), Gasherbrum V.
On the Pakistan-China border, in the Karakoram Range of the Himalayas, Gasherbrum I is 3rd highest peak in Pakistan. The mountain was originally believed to be about 7,823 meters high but it was later remeasured at 8,080 meters (26,444 ft). At certain times of year, Gasherbrum I reflect a golden glow from its slopes from the sun’s rays. In Chinese culture, this appearance gave rise to its name: “Gasherbrum,” which translates to “beautiful mountain.” SummitClimb offers Manaslu, Everest, Ama Dablam, Island Peak climb every year.
Our expedition will start with a flight to Islamabad followed by a drive to Skardu (7-8 hours), and another drive to Askole (2-3 hours). From Askole we’ll begin our trekking phase which will take us over Gondogoro La Pass and down into Concordia where we’ll set up Base Camp at approximately 16,000 feet. From there we will climb through three more camps before a summit bid on Gasherbrum I.
Gasherbrum I Expedition Routes
1. South-East Ridge:
One of the most popular routes to reach the summit of Gasherbrum I is called the Normal Route, which takes about 45-52 days to complete. This route starts on the South-East Ridge Face and goes up to a low-angled ridge that leads to the summit. It is also standard route and first successful ascent, via the South-East Ridge, Gasherbrum Glacier to Base Camp (5,000m), Camp 1 (6,000m), Camp 2 (6,500m), Camp 3 (7,250m) and finally Summit.
2. South Face
Another route, which starts on the south face, is less traveled than the Normal Route but has been used more frequently recently. This route begins on skis before moving onto foot, and it includes some sections of rock climbing along with the steep snow climbing. Second ascent of the mountain in 1975 via the South Face.
3. North Face Direct
First ascent of the North Face Direct in 1979 via Gasherbrum Glacier. A third option for those looking to climb Gasherbrum I is called the Northface Ridge, which is said by some mountaineers to be “the best alpine climb in Pakistan.” This route starts with snow slopes before moving into steeper rock sections that continue through ice fields until reaching a hanging glacier just below where climbers will likely set up a camp for their last night before attempting the summit.